Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

paddleshift holinger?

its about $24k for a brand spanker holinger

add on gear read out display and subframe closer to $30k

and i think the paddle shift option is an extra $5-6k

plus shipping and installation

got 2x 32 builds going. Shitter is LS powered for track work, cammed, new tr6060 box with upgraded synchros, nismo lsd, AGI cage and basic suspension goodies.

No 2 is my good one, 26/32, gt42, t400, gtr rear etc etc, 7yr build so far

  • Like 1

Nice builds Corey! Got any pics to share?

Mine is sitting on axle stands at the moment as I'm changing suspension setups. Might give it a respray later in the year and then think about swapping out the current turbo setup for a precision turbo of some sort....6262, 6266 or even 6466 .... dunno yet, need to do more research! :D

Nice builds Corey! Got any pics to share?

Mine is sitting on axle stands at the moment as I'm changing suspension setups. Might give it a respray later in the year and then think about swapping out the current turbo setup for a precision turbo of some sort....6262, 6266 or even 6466 .... dunno yet, need to do more research! :D

2.6 or? i think simon has shown the sweet spot for a 2.6 is the 6262

No pics at the moment both shells are bare getting ready for paint. Both been on the back burner for the last 6 months due to being busy at work. Will get some up when I start tinkering again.

Damo, go the RPF01's they are nice. Why the hate for the XT7's?

I think they look good on other cars like a 4 door 34, I think they have just been on the car 2 years and i am after a change although car has only been running ~ 6 months of that hahaha

on that just purchased a set of RPF01s in black should arrive in the next week or so




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As strange as this sounds (as they are fixed back), my Bride Xero CS seats are the most comfortable seats I've used.  I vote go genuine.  The only downside I've found is on very long drives, you can't reposition your body while driving. So even though its comfy, being locked in the same position eventually becomes uncomfortable. I find myself stopping every 3 or so hours to stretch my legs on long drives. 
    • You don't have to be bored driving a Camry. Not based on the way that a couple of f**king Ubereats/Didi/othersortofmethaddlednightshiftattheservicestationrecentimmmigrants were piloting them on the way to work this morning. f**k me dead!
    • FWIW, the Bride reps are really nice to sit in. The only complaint I have, other than the tear in my bolster, is that the velcro used to hold the backrest cushion in place, up under the headrest, is a little obvious and intrusive and could probably be done better. I don't know if that is a "feature" on the genuine ones also though. I haven't looked at a genuine one like the ones I have, only some of the older models. The other thing is, even though I bought the CF ones, I think the CF is really just decorative, over the top of the same FG as the normal seats. And so they really aren't light. Between the solidly built CF/FG seat, the steel frame in the recliner mechanism, and the solid-arse seat rail, they are probably heavier than even the stock seat. They are a serious lift to get in and out of the car.
    • Yes, and so the barest minimum power target is the one that makes the most sense. Massive power is fun, but you can only use it for 1.5s at a time, and only every now and then. Medium power levels allow you to enjoy the car far more often and for longer. 500 engine HP is just below 300 rwkW which is about the maximum that is sensible for any street car really. And for a 2.6L six, it will still leave you with a decent boost response and some sort of linearity of power delivery. As you get up towards 400rwkW the onset of power tends to be increasingly like a cliff and you need drag radials to keep the ground in proper contact with the car, and.... it's just not a car for driving around any more.
    • I already reached that conclusion myself after reading up a whole bunch and watching various videos from multiple sources. Don't know yet how I'd best manage that with the least amount of headache. Probably pulling the sump and just welding on a AN10 adapter or something. I also think it's healthy to take most opinions with a grain of salt, because experiences differ wildly and especially Aussies - when talking about RBs - don't know a world below 600whp drag builds. Personally I doubt I will ever take my R33 racing, so it's going to be a street car with the occasional spirited drive. Hence why I am (so far) under the impression that I'm going to be fine with a stock-ish engine for a while.
×
×
  • Create New...